Fashion

Alessandro Michele turned the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève into the setting for Valentino’s SS27 show and made it more interactive by asking the guests to bring books with them as the models moved between the study desks, iron railings and rows of bookshelves. The invitation itself arrived as a booklet listing 68 unread titles, referencing Umberto Eco’s idea of “anti-library”, a collection of books we own but have yet to read. Michele extended the idea of clothes, comparing the pieces that remained unworn in our wardrobes to books waiting to be discovered.

The 80 look collection opened with playful combinations of corsets and skirts—sweetheart bustier remained the focal point of the collection, paired with plissé skirts, floral jacquards and lacquered fabric with fur-finished hems. Peplum tops met lace pencil skirts, while rosetted-topped sandals and jewelled pumps worn with sheer socks added to the romantic mood.

Volumes played a big part throughout the collection—feather trims swept across the looks, while sequinned coats were finished with plumes at the collars and cuffs. A taffeta mini dress and skirts exploded into oversized bow-like flounces, while the others were shaped with sculptural ruffles and fur cuffs.

Structured blazers styled with studded belts, lace shorts and gloves brought a quieter moment. Closed circular neck jackets were layered with plaid harem trousers. Plaid shirts were paired with mohair skirts, and baseball caps stamped with “Villain Teen” added a playful, youthful touch.

Accessories completed Michele’s maximalist vision, from tinted rectangular sunglasses and pearl drop earrings to layered pearl and amber necklaces, opera gloves, embellished knee-high boots and rose-covered sandals.

More than a collection about excess, Michele’s Valentino SS27 was a reflection on the life of clothes and the memories they gather. Some pieces may only exist on a runway, others in photographs, while some remain in our wardrobes for years, waiting for their moment. In Michele’s world, fashion is worth keeping, even when it remains unread.

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Images: Supplied