Fashion

Rick Owens presented his collection at Paris Fashion Week for the SS27 collection. Rick Owens took over the reflecting pool at the Palais de Tokyo, creating an atmosphere that felt serene—almost devotional. Models walked on a sloping runway built over steel grating, presenting a collection that found moments of softness within the designer’s signature severity. Owens traced the inspiration to the dark, aged paintings in a Parisian basilica, a space he considers an extension of his own living room.

The column dress set the tone for the collection—cut in muted, a monochromatic colour palette almost like stone-toned shades; some versions held a rigid structure that extended away from the body—while others, crafted from gossamer fabrics, moved effortlessly with the wind. A slim black tulle gown featured a spiky, grid-like surface that Owens described as brutalist lace. Double duchesse car coats, sharp collarbone detailing and geometric bustles on long denim skirts further explored the interplay between structure and movement.

Unconventional material transformed into sculptural form—heavy nylop straps, typically used to secure shipping crates, were woven into a rigid duchesse to create an architectural, long-sleeved gown. Owens gave the glamour of the collection an industrial edge. Sparkling shoes and negligee-inspired pieces returned in unexpected forms, while all-enveloping tulle trousers echoed the leather, rubber and aluminium-barred designs from Owens’ menswear collection.

Rather than reinventing his aesthetic, Owens continued to refine it. The muted palette and elongated, almost monastic silhouettes retained his familiar visual language, while the intricate textures brought a sense of lightness to the collection. Denim skirts and car coats offered a more accessible take on his vision, while the elaborate tulle constructions delivered the drama. Balancing the anti-utopian with the romantic, Owens once again demonstrated how unconventional materials and meticulous craftsmanship can transform even the most austere silhouettes.

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Images: Supplied