Famous undercover food critic Tom Sietsema dared to dine at Noma’s $1,500-per-plate LA popup, even after foodies fled in droves amid the eatery’s scandal.

The founder of the famed Copenhagen culinary institution, René Redzepi, said last week he’d step down on the same day Noma launched its highly anticpiated 16-week LA residency.

He’s been accused in a bombshell report of alleged misconduct, and the pop-up has perhaps had more demonstrators than diners at the Paramour Estate. Sponsors like American Express pulled out of the event after the allegations snowballed.

But Sietsema — who unmasked himself after 25 years at the Washington Post — is kicking off a new newsletter on beehiiv with his Noma review.

The James Beard Award-winning food critic believes he’s the only journo who was able to get into the Noma pop-up that served him “cactus, seaweed and Hong Kong kumquats.”

‘Alice Waters!’ my dining companion and I cried, almost in unison, when we encountered one oh so California composition,” Sietsema tells P6H, referencing the mother of California cuisine.

His full review in “Next Course by Tom Sietsema” debuts Thursday on beehiiv.

“Lots of people have weighed in on the Noma pop-up in Los Angeles, currently the most controversial restaurant in the world. But I haven’t heard about anyone who’s actually dined there. What does the restaurant taste like? Is the meal worth $1,500 per person? I try to answer those questions,” he says.

Sietsema’s new project is the second major newsletter to enter the hospitality arena with beehiiv lately, after Caper launched with journalists including Annie Armstrong (Artnet), Chris Crowley (Grubstreet) and Emma Orlow (Eater), alongside a roster of high profile contributors. Beehiiv also counts TIME, TechCrunch, The Ringer, The Texas Tribune, Stocktwits, Los Angeles Magazine, and Inc. among its large roster of brand clients.

“I loved my time — 25 years! — as food critic at The Washington Post, but I really wanted to be my own boss, chart my own course. A newsletter offers that opportunity. And Beehiiv makes it easy,” Sietsema says of his new venture.

It’s an interesting move as influencers increasingly flood the space with videos of their own. Sietsema doesn’t have a problem with them – but takes their content with a grain of salt.

“I’m all for more voices, more people writing about food and restaurants. But experience and educated opinion are paramount. Credibility and trust take time. In short, experienced food critics are more important than ever before. They cut through the noise and they bring discernment to the game.”

In the spirit of that famous discernment, I have to ask Sietsema: what restaurant practice makes him roll his eyes when he dines out? “Surely I’m not the only diner tired of having a server ‘explain’ or ‘introduce’the menu. I think most of us know what appetizers and entrees are. No one wants to be taken hostage by a minutes-long spiel before they see a morsel of food, you know?”